Re-enactment of Backstage - Louis Vuitton 2015 Runway (Source: internet) |
D&G 2015 Runway (Source: internet) |
Since the beginning, catwalk society
has always been dominated by the “waifish aesthetic prominence.” Looking back
to six years ago, 87% of models walked in runway were Caucasian. Before the
revolutionary effect of black icons Iman, Naomi Campbell, Tyra
Banks, the number was even worse. On a recent analytical Jezebel report, it
shows almost 80% of the look (4,621 outfits) was worn by white models. There
were only 985 were worn by models of color during the 148 shows in NYFW
Fall/Winter 2014. According to LeeAnn - a writer from The Refinery29, she said: “New York runways were the most racially
diverse — with "only" 79% of its runway models being white. For a
deeply multicultural city like New York (where just under 44% of the population
is white, according to a 2013 American
Community Survey), these are obviously disappointing statistics”
(LeeAnn, "Sadly Not Shocking: Fashion Still Bad At Diversity", The Refinery29). On a particular case,
Jazebel reported Valentino had almost 96% white models walked for his show (41
girls out of 43 girls are Caucasian). The same result goes to Victoria Beckham,
Haider Ackermann, The Row, Paul & Joe. Those are the shows that had the
less models of color walked for them (only 4%-4.8%). These impressive numbers
once again show the catwalk diversity still remaining white faces’ dominance.
Strangely, it doesn’t reflect the world that is getting more transparent and
diversifying among races.
Valentino 2015 Runway (Source: internet) |
From a starting point, models of all colors/origins work
under model agencies and under the same modeling policy. However, despite the
simple fact that every model goes through the same casting process, the key
decision falls into the hands of casting directors. On “Race and the Runway”
article, Victoria Lin said “Casting directors continue to dismiss and
rationalize the lack of racial diversity on runways and in major brand
campaigns” (Victoria Lin, "Race and the Runway” – Arts, The Harvard Crimson). Whether a model
received a cast call or received an “okay”, it is up to casting directors to deliver a final call. In
addition, Lin also said “The root cause of the underrepresentation of models of
color ultimately appears to lie in the “race-blind” mindset behind the casting
decisions that result in majority-white catwalks and advertising campaigns.”
Victoria Beckham 2015 Runway (Source: internet) |
Additionally, fashion designers still remain a total bias
toward white face models. Designers are tend to not “making distinctions based
on skin color” but intently “paved the way for excuses of casting directors” to
refuse casting models of color in a make-sense/humanism way. It is criticized
as an alternative way of saying “a dark skinned model doesn’t work with our
vision” and it also allows designers to “pass over models of color in the name
of aesthetics.” Furthermore, Lin wrote in her article that casting director
Leila Anna shared her perception of “a show needs to make you dream, and it
doesn’t necessarily need to represent reality”. It is interpreted by Lin as “a
vision or dream, is one in which people of color are not present.” From this
point of view, it is obvious to see that the models of color have been staying
under disadvantage situation for years due to the bias of fashion designers and
casting directors. Hence, this controversial bias is considered as one of the
critical cause that builds the harsh reality of model diversity.
Calvin Klein 2015 Runway (Source: internet) |
On the other side of the front line, Diversity Coalition
was born as the savior of models of color. With the mission to change this harsh
reality, Diversity Coalition has been established a strong and provocative “fighting”
strategy. As a founder and an active representative of the Diversity Coalition,
Bethann Hardison, the winner of “CFDA Award” proudly adopted a new slogan:
“Activism needs to remain active.” She was once the first model of color in her
generation to appear on “Grand Divertissement à Versailles” with Pat Cleveland
and Alva Chinn in 1973. She was also a casting director who discovered famous
colored faces such as Veronica Webb, Roshumba Williams and Tyson Beckford. Back
in the days when she was still working with her modeling agency, Ms Hardison
said to “inclined to press the point when designers where disinclined to at
least consider any but white models”. Even though many decades have passed, she
continues to show her never-ending battle against “the lack of diversity on
fashion’s runways”. Recently, Matthew Schneier, a writer from New York Times said “Ms Hardison has
been consistently published open letters to the directors of the CFDA and
analogous bodies in Lodon, Milan and Paris, naming those designers who runway
shows included no or only one token model of color.” It works. The numbers of
colored models walked in the season had improved (such as Céline show had four
models of color compared to last season it had none). The Diversity Coalition’s
goal is not to bring 50-50 in number but to “catch up a little bit”. With an
endless effort, in a statistic summary during 16 NY shows received critiqued
for lack of model diversity last fall - the Diversity Coalition reported a
greatest improvement from Calvin Klein house, Narciso Rodriquez and The Row’s
house. Each of them has 4 models of color compared to none in the previous
season. Also, a document content six guidelines for racial diversity is
conducted by Diversity Coalition to [hopefully] improve the racial diversity in
decision-making during casting time. In a great effort, the Diversity Coalition
has submitted the guidelines to Diane von Furstenberg – the president and
Steven Kolb - the chief executive officer of the Council of Fashion Designers
of America (CFDA). Looking on a bright side, the casting director and fashion
designers will have no choice but to change their “dominant rule” to a more
fair-play option once the guidelines are officially circulated as a principle
document to follow.
Marc Jacob 2015 Runway (Source: internet) |
In fact, we are living in a “flat” world where everyone from
different ethnicities and nations of origin works together to achieve the same
goals and establishments. Although diversity continues showing its unstoppable
trend in many workplaces across all nations and organizations, catwalk society refuses
to change. The fashion industry still obviously shows great bias toward white
models and a lack of diversity. Once again, the same question is asked: “Will the
Diversity Coalition succeed its mission to bring equality of races into its
realm in the next 10 years?”
Works
Cited
Duggan, LeeAnn. "Sadly Not
Shocking: Fashion Still Bad At Diversity." Refinery29. Refinery29,
n.d. Web. 15 Dec. 2014.
Schneier,
Matthew. "Walking the Walk to Increase Diversity." The New York Times. The New York Times, 15 Mar. 2014. Web. 24 Nov. 2014.
Dries, Kate. "New York Fashion
Week Was Chock-Full of White Models Again." Jezebel. Jezebel,
n.d. Web. 15 Dec. 2014.
Lin, Victoria. "Race and
the Runway." The Harvard Crimson, n.d.
Web. 10 Nov. 2014
Feitelberg,
Rosemary. "Progress Seen in Model Diversity." WWD. WWD, 4 Feb. 2014. Web. 24 Nov. 2014.
Wilson, Julee.
"Bethann Hardison Continues Push For Racial Diversity On The Runway, Sends
New Letter." The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, n.d. Web. 15 Dec. 2014.